The Dolomites: Powder, Plates & Peace
February:
After the soft sun of Portugal and long coastal drives through Spain and France, February pulled us somewhere entirely different into the sharp, snow-dusted stillness of the Italian Dolomites. We weren’t chasing adrenaline this time, just rhythm. Clean air. Fresh snow. Time on skis, not screens. Time together.
We based ourselves in Selva Val Gardena, a village with proper alpine character and seriously good access to the mountains. It has that rare mix of charm, efficiency, and just the right amount of buzz. No faff, no fuss just fresh tracks and fresh coffee.
Where We Stayed
Hotel Nives
This was our softer, quieter stop boutique in feel, with just the right amount of polish. The spa became our little haven in the afternoons, and the staff seemed to know what we needed before we did. Dinner each night was low-lit and lovely: regional dishes, thoughtful wines, no pressure to dress up unless you wanted to.
Hotel Linder
More contemporary and a bit more “happening”, Hotel Linder had a great energy. Ski lifts just steps away, great coffee in the lobby, and rooms that felt clean and calm with all the mountain essentials. We ate at Luis Eatery one night modern, local, relaxed. We’d absolutely go back.
What We Did
We skied every day because when you’re in the Dolomites, why wouldn’t you? The terrain is vast and genuinely stunning. We did both directions of the Sella Ronda — the full circuit through the Ladin valleys and not once did it feel repetitive.
One of our favourite days was skiing the Hidden Valley. It’s quiet, almost dreamlike, and ends with a horse-drawn tow through the forest (yes, really). It felt like stepping into another time.
There was no chaos, no pressure. Just beautiful snow, great conditions, and the joy of doing something well, over and over again.
The Food — Where Italy Meets Austria
Now, the food. Honestly? We weren’t prepared for how good it would be. The whole region blends Italian soul with Austrian comfort food in the most delicious way. One day we were tucking into creamy polenta with melting mountain cheese, the next we were sharing gulasch with red cabbage and fluffy dumplings.
Every rifugio offered something different some rustic and cosy, others sleek and sun-soaked, but all with real heart. We had silky truffle pasta on a windswept ridge, warm strudel with vanilla sauce after a long morning’s ski, and apple schnapps we didn’t order but were glad we were given.
There’s no rushing lunch here. It’s all part of the day an experience, not just a pit stop.
Why It Stayed With Us
This trip reminded us how special winter can feel when you slow down. The Dolomites gave us fresh air, clear heads, tired legs, and full hearts. And that mix of skiing hard all day, then sitting still with something delicious in front of you, is a kind of happiness we’ll always come back for.
It wasn’t just about the snow, it was about the space.
A Winter Escape — Châteaux, Coastlines & Champagne Moments
December – January: France, Spain & Portugal
As the year quietly came to a close, we packed up the car and headed south - no fixed agenda, no flights, just a yearning for space, soft light, and somewhere to breathe again. What followed was a slow, soul-nourishing journey through France, across Spain, and into the golden warmth of southern Portugal. This is where we stayed, what we saw, and why we’ll never forget it.
Château les Merles — Mouleydier, Dordogne
From there, we drove south into the heart of the Dordogne, arriving at Château les Merles. Set among rolling vineyards and quiet woods, this 17th-century château blends French heritage with contemporary ease. We stayed in one of the estate’s luxury villas, complete with a private pool and uninterrupted views across the landscape.
Days drifted by with rounds of golf, late morning walks, and long lunches at Les Merles, the hotel’s exceptional restaurant housed in a converted barn. The food was clever and deeply local, showcasing the best of the region’s produce with quiet confidence. It’s a place that gently slows you down, where every detail is well considered, but nothing feels overdone.
Radisson Hotel Bordeaux Saint Jean — Bordeaux, France
The road home began gently, with a stop in Bordeaux. We stayed at the Radisson Hotel Bordeaux Saint Jean, a modern hotel located near the station and the revitalised quays. After weeks of character stays, its clean Scandinavian interiors and deep, comfortable beds offered a welcome reset.
The city was quiet in January, and we wandered with no plan: coffees in local brasseries, a visit to La Cité du Vin, and riverside walks beneath low winter sun. This was a short stay, but a valuable one — a gentle reminder of how restorative cities can be when you see them slowly.
Château de Cocove — Pas-de-Calais, France
We crossed the Channel and began the drive in earnest, arriving just outside Calais at Château de Cocove, a charming 18th-century estate nestled deep in the woods. This quietly grand hotel, surrounded by 11 hectares of trees, felt like a secret. Inside, the rooms retained their historic soul with tall windows, antique furnishings, and a gentle hush.
Dinner was taken in the château’s elegant dining room, where seasonal French cooking was matched by a well-curated wine list. It was the perfect introduction to the kind of travel we love most: elegant, relaxed, and completely unhurried.
Quinta Jacintina — Algarve, Portugal
Our southernmost destination was Quinta Jacintina, a boutique hideaway tucked into the Algarve’s Golden Triangle. With only ten individually designed bedrooms, the hotel felt like a private villa rather than a formal property. Surrounded by tropical gardens and just minutes from golden beaches, it offered a kind of calm that’s hard to describe until you’ve felt it.
Breakfasts in the courtyard, books by the pool, and spontaneous visits to local seafood restaurants framed our stay. Every interaction felt personal, from the warm welcome to thoughtful recommendations that led us off the beaten path. Quinta Jacintina is for travellers who want to disappear for a while — not into the wilderness, but into something slower and more beautiful.
Les Lumières — Versailles, France
Our final stop was, quite simply, exquisite. Tucked behind the gates of the Cité Royale, just steps from the palace itself, Les Lumières is Versailles at its most intimate. Created from two historic pavilions, the hotel is elegant, romantic, and steeped in Enlightenment-era charm.
Each of the 31 rooms is named for a French philosopher, artist, or explorer. We stayed in a suite that overlooked the rooftops of the old town, where subtle nods to the past met modern comfort with perfect balance. In the evening, we sipped champagne in Le Bar des Philosophes, followed by dinner at La Table des Lumières, where every dish was a tribute to French culinary tradition.
It was the perfect way to end our journey — reflective, refined, and full of quiet wonder.